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Tony Tantillo: Packham Pears

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Tony Tantillo: Packham Pears

  Well this week's tip is going to be with Packham pears.

Have you had Packham pears before? As a matter of fact, these pears are one of the highest selling variety of pears there is., but very few people know about them because they think they're buying Bartlett pears or a green variety pear. It is a green variety pear but this pear is like a Bosc, D Anjou, and a Bartlett all rolled in together and this is what you want to do when you buy them.

You see this one? You want to make sure Packham pears have this beautiful color all the way around, free from any shriveling or decaying whatsoever. If the stem is attached, that is a plus—not too much of a minus—but a pretty good plus. Then what you want to do is make sure it has a pretty good give to the touch. Not too much, but a pretty good give.

Now here is the key…when you bring them home, don't store them in the refrigerator, store them on the counter, and I can tell you why.

When you store them at room temperature the sugar in this variety of pear will continue to grow inside the pear, and when they get nice and yellow, that's when they're the sweetest. Don't wait until they become way too yellow or they may be a little bit on the mealy side then.

Packham pears, loaded with carbohydrates and fiber; they're good for you and they're absolutely delicious. Packham pears…they should change it…it's kind of a tongue twister, Packham pears at this price; there I said it.

Duck Breast with Oven-Roasted Pear Sauce
Roasting pears brings out marvelous flavor. You should look for fruit that is barely ripe and still quite firm.
Serves 4

2 Packham, Bartlett or Anjou pears, peeled, cored, and halved
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1 tablespoon sugar
Kosher salt
Butter-flavored cooking spray
1 boneless duck breast (2 halves,) about 30 ounces with skin
1/2 teaspoon aromatic pepper (see tip)
2 tablespoons minced shallots
1/4 cup pear brandy or a richly flavored chardonnay
2/3 cup Chicken Stock
1/4 teaspoon arrowroot or cornstarch mixed with 2 tablespoons Chicken Stock

1. Preheat oven to 500°F. Cut pear halves crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Combine cinnamon, sugar, and 1 teaspoon of salt in a mixing bowl. Add pear slices and toss well. Spray an ovenproof skillet with cooking spray. Add pear slices and spray with cooking spray. Cook in the oven 20 minutes, turning once, or until tender.

2. Meanwhile, remove skin from duck, reserving half of the skin. Cut breast halves into 4 equal pieces total, about 4 to 5 ounces for each piece. Put breast pieces between sheets of foil, butcher paper, or plastic wrap; pound with a meat pounder or the side of a cleaver to half of their original thickness. Season both sides with salt and aromatic pepper.

3. Heat a large skillet over high heat until a drop of water instantly evaporates on its surface. Add duck skin and lower heat to medium low. Cook covered for 5 minutes. Discard skin; pour off all but a thin haze of duck fat and put pan over medium-high heat. When pan smokes add duck breast pieces. Cook 3 minutes on each side for medium rare. Remove and keep warm.

4. Add shallots to the same skillet and lower heat to medium. Cook until shallots soften, about 2 minutes. Add pear brandy and stir a minute. Add pears, Chicken Stock, and arrowroot mixture. Cook a few minutes, until sauce thickens slightly.

5. Cut each duck breast piece into 5 to 6 slices on the diagonal. Fan slices on 4 plates, and put pear sauce on the side.

Cooking Tip
Aromatic pepper is equal amounts of fresh ground allspice berries and black peppercorns.

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