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Tony Tantillo: White Onions

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Tony Tantillo: White Onions

  Well this week's tip is going to be with WHITE ONIONS.

You know, I like to cook, and I use onions in so many recipes because the basis of a lot of recipes is "soffrito;" onions, celery, garlic, carrots, the aromatics all put together.

I've been using a lot of white onions versus yellow onions because of the mild flavor they have this time of year, and what they add to all those recipes. But you need to select and store the white onions right the first time, or otherwise—this is a tender little onion, this white onion—it'll get all bruised up and taste terrible, and you don't want that. Let's talk about selection.

When you buy them, you want to make sure they're nice and white, just like this all the way around. You see the outer skin? It has to be almost translucent so you can see the white that's inside, and that's what makes this white onion so special.

It's the same color all the way through, but make sure you discard the outer skin, that's very important. As a matter of fact, I discard two layers before I get into the onion when I chop it up.

When you bring them home, here is the key; you want to store them in a cool dry place. You don't want to store them in the refrigerator, because they'll get a translucent color to 'em, almost too much translucent color and lose some flavor, but you don't want to heat them up and get them too warm; cool, dry place. Store them for a week or two; yellow onions a lot longer, white onions very short.

White onions for the recipe and you'll thank me.

Risotto with Asparagus and Clams
The hot pepper and lemon offer a good contrast to each other in this dish. Notice the absence of cheese.
4 to 6 servings as a main course, 6 to 8 servings as an appetizer

30 littleneck clams, scrubbed
3 cups water mixed with 3 cup Chicken Stock
1 tablespoon butter
1/2 cup finely chopped onion
3 teaspoons minced garlic
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and minced
2 cups arborio rice
2/3 cup dry white wine
2 cups asparagus spears, trimmed of tough bottom ends and cut into 1-inch sections (10 to 12 medium spears)
2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped
1/2 teaspoon grated lemon rind
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste


1. Put clams in a large covered skillet over medium-high heat, shaking a few times. Remove clams from heat as soon as they open. As soon as they are cool enough to handle, remove clams from shells, halve (unless very small), and reserve any liquid. Strain clam liquid through cheesecloth and into large saucepan with Chicken Stock and water. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer.

2. Put butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-low heat. Add onion, garlic, and jalapeno pepper. Cover and cook gently until soft, about 3 minutes. Add rice and stir to coat. Add wine, increase heat to medium, and bring to a boil.

3. Begin adding stock, a cup or so at a time, stirring occasionally while risotto is at a simmer. After the second cup, add the asparagus. Continue adding stock as the rice absorbs the previous amount of liquid.

4. When the last cup of stock has been added, stir in reserved clams, parsley, lemon rind, and salt and pepper to taste. When risotto is tender, but still firm, remove from heat. (You may not need to use up all the liquid.) Keep tasting to see when the risotto is just right. It should take about 25 to 30 minutes.

Cooking Tip
Though any dry white wine can be used in this dish, it's always a nice touch to use one that fits the ethnic makeup of the dish and especially one you can drink with it. In this case, I'd recommend an Italian white such as a Pinot Grigio or Verdicchio.

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