Food

  This week's tip is with Artichokes.

Yes, it's springtime and artichokes are here from the Central coast of California. These chokes are great because they have a sweet nutty flavor to 'em, and this time of year they are peaking in size, big size, and of course in flavor.

If you don't select them right, and if you don't store them right, they're going to taste like cardboard, and you don't want that to happen. Let's talk about selection.

When buying artichokes, see the central leaves right here? They have to be nice and tight and close together; that is so important. There can be a little discoloration on the skin, but that's "frost kiss." That's the frost coming in from the ocean on to the land and kissing the artichoke and going back out.

Now one thing you want to make sure about this is the discoloration doesn't go all the way through the leaves. That means they're old, not "frost kissed," and one more thing, squeeze 'em. When they're squeaky like this, they're nice and fresh.

When you bring them home, store them in the refrigerator ASAP, and use them within 2 or 3 days; don't hold them too long. They look hardy, but they don't last long in the refrigerator. As a matter of fact, their shelf life isn't very long.

Artichokes, they're sweet, nutty, & delicious. Ah…this time of year I celebrate talking about produce, and when I see artichokes, I'm a happy camper.

Prepare artichokes for stuffing by removing the stem as explained above, and then trim ½ inch or so from the tops of the outer leaves using scissors. This will eliminate the prickly needles that protrude from the tops of the leaves, and give a more attractive look. Cook using your method of choice. Pull back the leaves to uncover the inedible center portion, and scrape out the very inner leaves (called the cone) and the fuzzy choke. (This can be done while the artichoke is raw, but it is more difficult that way.)

Artichokes a la Grecque
Serves 4

1 teaspoon kosher salt
¾ teaspoon each black peppercorns, coriander seeds, and fennel seeds
2 bay leaves
A few branches of fresh thyme or ½ teaspoon dried
1 whole chile pepper or a pinch of hot pepper flakes
3 cloves garlic, crushed
6 fresh parsley stems
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup dry white wine or dry vermouth
4 large artichokes
1 lemon, washed thoroughly and halved

1. Combine all ingredients except artichokes and lemon in a small kettle with 3 quarts water; bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer 10 minutes, longer for more flavorful broth.

2. Meanwhile, peel artichoke stems, detach them from the base of the artichokes, and remove ½ inch from the end of each stem. Cut about 1 inch off the top of each artichoke. Remove the withered leaves at the base of the artichoke. With scissors, trim ½ inch or so from the tops of the other leaves. Rub the cut portions of the artichokes with cut lemon to prevent discoloration.

3. Squeeze the juice of the lemon into the flavored water and toss in the lemons. Add the artichokes and stems. Cover with a plate to keep submerged and cook about 25 minutes. You should be able to easily pierce the base of an artichoke with a knife. (If the artichokes are to be cooked further, there should be a bit more resistance.) Remove artichokes, squeeze gently to remove excess moisture, and cool upside down. Eat as is (warm or at room temperature), roast, or stuff and bake.

Cooking Tip
If you don't want the loose herbs and spices to get stuck inside the artichoke leaves, put all the herbs and spices in a tea ball or wrap them in cheesecloth. Speaking of seasonings, I use kosher salt because it has the purest, least adulterated salt flavor.